April 2, 2021

Typewriters

I don’t know why I collect typewriters. I could tell you it’s because I find it easier to write without the distraction of the internet; that I find the push and response of the keys incredibly satisfying. I love the smudged ribbon ink all over my fingers – or the faint and lingering smell of mineral spirits. Is it because I can’t let go of an outmoded image of what a writer looks like: slightly dishevelled, hunched over a small table with papers strewn across it, fingers at the ready? Or is it the finality of putting thoughts onto paper? Oddly, I feel less constrained on the typewriter. I don’t feel forced to constantly revise every word or sentence. And when I do make edits, I have to cross out words or strike them through. All those proofreading marks come flooding back into my brain.

I have 11 typewriters, currently:

  • Olympia SM9
  • Olivetti Lettera 32 (x2)
  • Hermes Media 3000 (w/ Epoca)
  • Hermes 3000 (x2)
  • Olympia SG1
  • Underwood 450 (Olivetti Underwood Corp. - John Svezia)
  • Erika Model M (w/ QWERTY keyboard)
  • Olympia SM4 (w/ italic)
  • Hermes Ambassador
  • Olympia SM3

I think that I want to stop at 12, so that makes my next choice all the more difficult. I don’t have a single American-made typewriter in my collection – not for any particular reason – so that’s where I’m leaning. If I could find a baby-blue Smith-Corona Super Silent or a Remington KMC I’d be happy.

My favorite typewriter is perhaps my Italian-made Lettera 32. Like Joe Namath, I am an Olivetti girl. It doesn’t have the most features or feel particularly snappy, but I’ve probably written the most with it. When I bought it, I figured if it was good enough for Cormac McCarthy, it was good enough for me. If I had to recommend a typewriter to someone starting out, it would have to be any of the Olympia line. The SM9 in particular just works. It was the first typewriter I bought and has never given me an ounce of trouble.

The Hermes Ambassador is my main typewriter right now. It came from the “Boise” stash – Swiss/French standards imported to the US that languished for 40 or so years in a storage locker. The big hulking standards are better suited for long writing sessions, and it’s easy to get into a solid rhythm. The extra weight of the frame also keeps it from sliding around as you type. It has a QWERTZ kezboard, though, and if I’m even the slightest bit distracted I’ll start tzping like this…

I highly recommend The Typewriter Revolution by Richard Polt if you want to learn more. It’s a great resource, along with his blog.

What I Write

The past few years, I’ve relegated myself to keeping a daily (or weekly…) journal. It’s mostly a form of therapy. I get to dump all of my thoughts, obsessions, and problems onto the page. And, in some way, leave a record of myself for my children. I don’t want to be too hard on myself – while my diary isn’t the next Great American Novel™, it’s still writing.

What to Write On

My preferred paper comes from the simple Mead Plain Writing Tablet (70104). It’s 20# with a nice 2:3 aspect ratio, cheap, takes ink well, and I confirmed with Mead that it’s acid-free. Right now I have years grouped together in manilla envelopes, but one day I’d like to bind them. Being single pages and not folios, however, limits my options. I have some nice archival glue that I might use for double-fan binding. We’ll see.

Most typewriters take standard-sized spools of ribbon. They’re plentiful on eBay. The most common material is nylon, but you can buy cotton or silk ribbon too. Silk will get you crisp imprints – as close as you can get without a machine capable of using a carbon ribbon.

Tips for Buying a Typewriter

I’ve never spent more than $50 for a typewriter – both in-person and online – the Ambassador being the only exception. You see stores on Etsy trying to sell (and succeeding!) these things for $300+. Remember, these are things most people don’t want cluttering up their house and hundreds of thousands of any given model were produced each year for homes and businesses.

You need to learn how to haggle, both online and in-person. Even the most deal-adverse antique store owner is probably going to realize that nobody else is going to pay them for the Royal Quite Deluxe that’s been sitting on the shelf for five months.

  • Set a price point and stick with it. Don’t deviate; your patience and discipline will reward you.
  • Utilize eBay’s “Sold” search function to see what the actual market rate is.
  • Take a risk – sometimes people try to sell “broken” typewriters that might only need a new ribbon ($3). Maybe it’s just dirty? Mineral spirits, PB Blaster, an old toothbrush, and some Q-Tips can do wonders. Be careful, however, as missing or truly broken parts are bad news. You need a spare/scrap machine to harvest organs from, and the knowledge/expertise of how to do larger repairs has largely been lost to time.
  • Psychology headlines I’ve read online suggest that if you’re going to make an offer, use an exact dollar amount (e.g., $37.23). It conveys the impression that you know something more of the product’s exact value than the seller?

Jesse Rothacher © 2021